Category Archives: Favourite recipes

My most flavourful recipes

Parkin cake with celeriac ice cream and caramelized pears

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Reposting, as this is a good winter dessert (despite the ice cream). Too heavy for summer.

When I saw this recipe in Olive Magazine, I was intrigued, not only by the celeriac in a sweet recipe but also because I had never heard of Parkin cake before. It turns out to be a time-honoured, tried and tested classic. That shows how much I know about food.

I made some adjustments along the way. For example, for the parkin cake, I don’t like the idea of “self-raising flour” (as they insist on spelling it, although it is actually “self-rising flour” – but I have discovered that you can’t trust their spelling at all despite the fact that it is an English mother-tongue magazine). I have also translated the rather cryptic “mixed spice” into part cinnamon and part nutmeg.

Also, since I do not have an ice cream machine – I know – big mistake, but they do take up a lot of room – I have changed the procedure of finishing the ice cream slightly. I whipped the cream separately, and since I used organic eggs in a country with strict salmonella control, I skipped the bit where the egg mixture is heated up.

For the ice cream:

  • 1 celeriac, peeled and finely sliced, should yield about 500g
  • 300 ml whipping cream
  • 700 ml milk 
  • 160 g golden caster sugar (I used Rewe’s bio Rohrohrzucker)
  • 9 egg yolks 

Heat the oven to 200C/fan. Place the celeriac slices in one layer on a baking sheet. Bake till the celeriac is dark brown. It is OK if it seems almost burnt around the edges. This will bring flavour and colour.

In a saucepan, bring milk and the baked celeriac to the boil, then take it off the heat and allow to infuse for about an hour. Then blend till smooth.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whip sugar and egg yolks till light and fluffy and the sugar has dissolved, then mix with the celeriac milk.

Whip the cream to soft peaks and fold into the mixture.

Cover with cling film and place in freezer. For the first couple of hours, stir regularly until almost at ice cream texture.

For the parkin cake:

  • 100 g flour
  • 1 heaped tsp baking powder plus a pinch of salt
  • 1 heaped tsp ground ginger
  • 1 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 1 large pinch grated nutmeg
  • 200 g oats (I used coarse or “large” oats, but the finer, smaller variety is probably better)
  • 200 g golden syrup (I had some rice syrup nearing its sell-by date and supplemented with maple syrup)
  • 75 g black treacle (I used Rapunzel Zuckerrohr Melasse)
  • 100 dark muscovado sugar (I used Rewe’s Brauner Roh-Rohrzucker)
  • 110 g unsalted butter
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tblsp milk 

Heat the oven to 160C/fan.

Sift the flour, ground ginger, cinnamon and nutmeg into a large bowl, add the oats, and mix.

Melt the golden syrup, treacle, sugar and butter in a saucepan, until the butter has melted and the sugar has dissolved.

Pour the hot mixture into the dry ingredients and quickly mix thoroughly.

Add the egg and milk, then mix again briefly.

Pour the mixture into a buttered and lined loaf tin. The tin I used was about 25 x 9 cm, and fitted perfectly. The cake rises between 1 and 2 cm during baking. Bake for 50 minutes or until a knife comes out fairly clean. The cake should be dense and sticky.

Cool in the tin.

For the pears:
  • 400 g sugar NOTE the recipe calls for golden caster sugar. I used Rewe’s Rohrohrsugar which is clearly not suited for this purpose, and the whole thing got rather messy and difficult to handle. My guess is that ordinary white sugar would do just fine.
  • 4 pears, peeled, and each cut into eight wedges lengthways
  • 1 star anise
  • 1 vanilla pod, split lengthways
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 100 g unsalted butter

On low heat, melt the sugar in a frying pan until you have a light caramel. Don’t stir, just tip the pan till it is all melted.

Add the pears and stir gently. Beware of splutter.

Add the spices and keep stirring. If the sugar stiffens, turn up the heat a little and keep cooking until it melts again. Continue to cook until a knife can go through the pear with ease, but be careful not to overcook.

Remove from heat, then add butter and give a final stir once melted.

Pour the pears into a sieve over a bowl, to stop the pears from over-cooking, and to preserve the caramel sauce which is to be poured over the pears and icecream when serving.

Parkin cake keeps well, and gets stickier with time.

Alledgedly, parkin cake can be frozen, wrapped in cling film and tin foil, but I can’t confirm that yet.

Conclusion: Celeriac ice cream is nice, but only as a novelty and together with these other two components. I would never make it to be eaten on its own or as part of any other dessert.

I would also look at other ways to caramelize pears – in this version it was quite difficult as the sugar kept lumping up.

But star anise in a caramel sauce – why have I never thought about that – from now on I will remember that whenever I caramelize anything – sweet or savory.

Crispy Honey Sriracha Tofu

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IN PROGRESS

  • 14 ounce block medium firm tofu
  • 1 clove garlic (minced)
  • 2 tablespoons sriracha sauce
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 1/2 tablespoon honey
  • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons potato starch or corn starch (for dusting)
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil (or other neutral oil)
  • 1 teaspoon sesame oil
  • 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
  • 1 scallion, finely chopped (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. Drain the tofu from the package and place on a plate. Let sit for 15-20 to remove excess water. Alternatively, wrap the tofu in paper towel or tea towel to remove excess water. Repeat 3 to 4 times until the tofu is dryer.
  2. Whisk garlic, sriracha, soy sauce, honey and rice vinegar in a bowl and set aside.
  3. Dust tofu with cornstarch until all sides are coated.
  4. Use a medium large pan and turn the heat to high. Add oil and when the oil is hot, almost smoking, add tofu cubes. Be careful of oil spits! Fry on each side for 2-3 minutes without touching or tossing too much, until golden brown.
  5. Add sauce and gently coat tofu cubes. Cook for 3 minutes.
  6. Turn the heat off and add sesame oil and sesame seeds.
  7. Stir once more to evenly coat tofu cubes and serve topped with scallions.

Sunday Brunch: Gram (Chickpea flour) waffles

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IN PROGRESS

Vegan and gluten free. Can be frozen and reheated in the toaster.

Ingredients

  • 60 g sweet potato, grated
  • 60 g finely chopped bell pepper
  • 40 g finely chopped onion
  • 1 hot green chili finely chopped
  • 1 knob fresh ginger, grated
  •  Pinch carom (ajwain) seeds or cumin seeds
  • ½ tsp turmeric
  • ½ tsp salt
  • 2 Tbsp rice flour
  • 130 g chickpea flour
  • 1/8 tsp baking soda
  •  2,5 dl water
  • oil as needed
  • Finely chopped red onion, and chopped fresh coriander to garnish

Instructions

  • Mix all the wet ingredients except the water well, then mix the dry ingredients separately, and finally mix the two together, before adding the water. Mix well and add more water if needed.
  • Let this mixture sit for 5 minutes before starting to make your waffles.
  • Cook in the oiled waffle iron until golden brown and crisp, to preference.

Butternut squash and chickpea curry

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  • 2 onions, chopped 
  • 2 small or one very large head of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 1 large know of ginger, peeled and finely chopped 
  • 2 red chilies, diced
  • 1 tblsp avocado oil
  • 1 tsp ground turmeric
  • 2 tsp ground coriander
  • 2 tsp ground cumin
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 medium butternut squash, diced 
  • 700 g cooked chickpeas
  • 1 tin coconut milk
  • 1 tin tomato
  • Water as needed

  • Sauté onion, ginger and garlic in the oil for a few minutes with a pinch of salt, then add the spices and fry for another minute before adding the squash and chickpeas.
  • Mix well, then add the coconut milk and tomato. Bring to a simmer and cook until the squash softens and the sauce thickens.

This and that

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On my balcony, contemplating shapes and shadows and black and white vs. colour; a walk in Alt-Lübars; and some old photos that turned up while I was tidying up my harddrive.

On 26 May, I had actually planned to walk about 15 km from Alt-Lübars, along Tegeler Fließ, round Hermsdorfer See and back on Tegeler Fließ, to Alt-Tegel, but felt tired and got distracted by the prospect of lunch in a restaurant by a lake. Here is the route I ended up walking, but will go back and do more of Tegeler Fließ in the near future.

And some old photos – the first one from the good old days when the ABC art fair was still alive, although never really kicking:

Vegetable cutlets

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Serve with a nice sauce and/or chutney as a vegetarian meal, or as accompaniment to fish or meat.

I am sure there is such a thing as a vegan replacement for eggs for this purpose, in which case these are easily converted into a vegan meal.

  • 300 g cooked potato, mashed
  • 100 g cooked brown rice
  • 100 g cooked quinoa
  • 300-400 g finely chopped or grated mixed vegetables – e.g. leek, spinach, carrot, beetroot, bell pepper, cabbage, squash …..
  • 5 cloves garlic, mashed
  • 1 knob ginger, grated
  • 1 teaspoon red chili powder or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon turmeric powder
  • 2 teaspoon cumin powder
  • 1 teaspoon garam masala
  • salt to taste
  • 2 large eggs
  • Juice of a lemon

Instructions

  • Mix potato, quinoa, and brown rice well
  • Add as many vegetables as possible (the patties you form later should hold together and not fall apart)
  • Mix in the eggs, garlic and ginger
  • Add all the spices, salt and lemon juice and mix well
  • Adjust seasoning (for example, if your vegetable is mainly white cabbage, ground coriander will go very well
  • Make small round balls and flatten them gently, and pan fry them on both sides.

Rhubarb recipes

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IN PROGRESS

White chocolate panna cotta with rhubarb

  • 4 leaves fine leaf gelatine
  • 400ml double cream
  • 300ml whole milk
  • 70g caster sugar
  • 1 vanilla pod, halved and seeds scraped out, or vanilla bean paste 1 tsp
  • 150g white chocolate, finely chopped

STEWED RHUBARB

  • 400g rhubarb, cut into 2cm pieces
  • 50g caster sugar
  • 1 lemon, juiced

Method

  • STEP 1Soak the gelatine in a bowl of ice-cold water for 10 minutes until very soft. Meanwhile, put the cream, milk, sugar, vanilla pod and seeds into a pan along with a pinch of salt, and bring to a gentle simmer.
  • STEP 2Once simmering, take off the heat (remove the vanilla pod, if using), add the chocolate, then stir to melt. Drain the gelatine in a fine sieve, then squeeze out as much water as possible. Add the gelatine to the cream mixture and mix really well. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve into a jug. Leave for 5-10 minutes until thickened slightly, then mix really well and divide evenly between six pudding basins or moulds. Cover and chill for at least 6 hours but preferably overnight.
  • STEP 3For the stewed rhubarb, put the rhubarb, sugar and lemon juice into a pan and simmer gently, stirring occasionally until the rhubarb has released some juice and is very tender but not collapsing. This can be made ahead and then chilled.
  • STEP 4To serve, carefully dip the bases of the moulds in hot water for 3-4 seconds to loosen the panna cottas, then invert onto plates. Reheat the rhubarb until just warm, then spoon around the panna cottas to serve.

Bottle gourd and chana dal curry

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IN PROGRESS

3-4 tblsp oil or ghee

500 bottle gourd, trimmed (but not peeled)

150 g chana dal, rinsed and soaked for a couple of hours, then drained

1 tsp mustard seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

2 medium red onions, finely chopped

Large knob of ginger, finely chopped

2 green chili, deseeded and finely chopped

10-12 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tin tomatoes

1 cinnamon stick (ceylon)

1 tsp red chili powder

1,5 tsp turmeric powder

1 tsp coriander powder

2 tsp garam masala

Salt to taste

Chopped coriander leaves for garnish

Fry cumin and mustard seeds in the oil or ghee till they crackle, then add the onions and sautee till they become translucent.

Add ginger, garlic and green chilies and sautee for about fifteen seconds.

Add tomatoes and the rest of the spices and sautee, stirring.

Add chana dal and mix well. Simmer for about 20 minutes.

Add bottle gourd, stir, simmer till the gourd softens, probably about 20 minutes. Taste for salt and sprinkle with chopped coriander leaves before serving.

 

Venison stew

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This week’s food photography assigment is one cocktail, one stew and one soup.

I don’t understand the cocktail craze, at least not the sweet, sticky ones, any more than I have ever understood why grown people drink those awful softdrinks or whatever they are called – coke, fanta etc. – nor, for that matter, why children are allowed to drink them on a daily basis nowadays. All that sugar. Gross. But I’m sure big pharma is happy, especially the insulin manufacturers. Also laughing all the way to the bank is the mind-boggling diet- and weightloss industry. Absurd, in view of the fact that it is just simple maths (number of calories IN vs. number of calories OUT) – even I can figure that one out although I am innumerate (is that what it is called – the equivalent of dyslexic but with numbers?).

And soup – naahh – not in soup cooking mode – but a stew is good timing since I am preparing a venison stew for one of those rare occasions where I am actually having a couple of friends around for a meal.

  • 4 tblsp flour
  • 800 g venison in 2 cm cubes
  • olive oil
  • 2 onions (I always use red since I find the yellow onions a bit too sweet), peeled and chopped (they do not have to be very finely chopped)
  • 3 carrots, peeled and sliced
  • 2 sticks celery, trimmed and sliced
  • 1 tablespoon juniper berries, crushed
  • “Needles” from 2 sprigs rosemary, chopped
  • 50 g butter
  • 6 sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Stock
  • 1 clove garlic , peeled and finely chopped

Mix 2 tblsp of the flour with salt and black pepper well and then mix in the venison, coating thoroughly.

Brown the meat in olive oil for a couple of minutes and add

onion, carrot, celery, juniper, rosemary and butter. Simmer covered for five minutes. Add a sprinkle of water or stock if necessary.

Remove the lid and continue to fry, stirring occasionally. When the onions start to caramelize, add the chopped parsley stems with the remaining flour and stock. Keep the parsley leaves for later.

Simmer the stew till the meat easily breaks apart. If you have been using stock cubes rather than stock, add water if necessary.

Chop and mash the galic, the parsley leaves, a tsp of salt and a good grinding of black pepper to a paste and add to the stew shortly before serving.

I am serving this with a mash of potato and celery (adding some milk, sour cream and butter).

An adapted version of Masala Vada Curry

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Obviously vegetarian, and also vegan unless you use ghee instead of oil (I did use ghee in this case – nothing else can imitate the caramelly flavour of homemade ghee).

But first a word about the food photography course. I am running out of steam and will not be presenting a final project. What I had in mind is not quite doable, at least not with my current low energy levels – whatever energy I have goes towards taking care of Max and his exercise needs (and of course making sure that I myself eat relatively healthily and generally trying to make sure I don’t get sick).

Also, as described in an earlier post, food photography is not really my kind of thing. I just need to be able to post half-way decent photos of the dishes I cook, and I have learned a lot of useful tricks in the course, and I am still curious to see what the others come up with.

One thing that perhaps, perhaps not, suits everybody except me is that we are all asked what we think of everybody else’s photos. I am actually there to hear what the teacher has to say and not what the other students have to say, and I would imagine they also don’t care what I think. What do we know? If we did, we would not be doing a course.

Anyway, one final thought – I am astonished at the number of sweet stuff I see in the class cook – cookies, muffins, desserts, …. I hope it is just for the course, considering how bad sugar is for you and the negative effects that eating sugar so regularly has on physical, hormonal and mental health.

Equally astonishing has been all the talk of sourdough as if it is a novelty recently revealed. I have been using sourdough all my life, and my parents and their parents before me: https://www.hellemoller.eu/2012/09/12/rye-bread/ (but not for white bread which is not particularly healthy).

Enough about the course.

Today I am cooking a dish that should normally have chana dal in it, but I am using red split lentils since that is what I have available. I do not expect the result to be any different, except the colour.

I was dumb enough to make the dal paste too thin, so the the “balls” ended up more like flattened, very thick pancakes, and some of them fell apart, but I still really like this recipe and will definitely have another go at it in the near future – with chana dal, not that I think that that was the problem.

The lentil balls

  • 400 gram red split lentils
  • Chili, to taste, in whichever way, shape or form you have available (I am using dried chili flakes here)
  • 20 curry leaves (I used frozen here, so they look a bit soggy – the flavour remains the same, though)
  • 2 tsp fennel seeds (Saunf)

The curry

  • oconut oil or olive oil or ghee
  • 3 cinnamon sticks
  • 12 cloves (Laung)
  • 12 cardamom pods, slightly crushed
  • 12 black pepper corns
  • 4 bay leaves
  • 4 chilies, deseeded
  • A small handfull dried curry leaves
  • 2 large red onions, finely chopped
  • 2 large knobs ginger, peeled and finely chopped
  • 15 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
  • 3 tblsp tomato puree (the concentrated variety, from a tube)
  • 3 tins chopped tomatoes
  • 1 heaped tsp teaspoon turmeric powder
  • 2 tsp  red chili powder
  • 1 tblsp coriander powder
  • Salt, to taste
  • Fresh mint or coriander, for ganish

Rinse the dal and soak it for a couple of hours.

In the meantime, heat oil or ghee and add black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, green chili, curry leaves, ginger, garlic and onions, and sautée.

When the onions turn golden, add the tomato puree, turmeric powder, red chili powder, coriander powder, and salt.

Add the tinned tomatoes. Bring to a boil and cook for a couple of minutes. Add water if needed and simmer on a very low heat.

Back to the dal: Grind the lentils with fennel seeds, curry leaves and chili, and water as needed, for a thick batter which can be spooned into balls.

Fry them in oil or ghee until browned and crisp.

Drop them into the curry and simmer for five to ten minutes before serving.