Category Archives: Berlin

My favourite city

Stralau Peninsula 9 March 2021

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I have been here quite a few times over the years. It has changed a lot, and is still changing.

The route on Komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/328345222.

Halbinsel Stralau: http://stralauer-halbinsel.de/

Across the street from S-Bahnhof Treptower Park:

A lot of photos from the Jewish Cemetery in Weißensee

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The website: http://www.jg-berlin.org/en/judaism/cemeteries/weissensee.html

Daytrip to Warnemünde 15 February

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Weatherbeaten and happy, took a trip to see the sea. Spent nearly six hours by the Baltic Sea (to make up for the several weeks I had planned on spending by the North Sea (which to me is a real sea :-)), but since overnighting is currently verboten, this will have to do.

I treated myself to a ticket on first class, direct train. Comfortable and – hopefully – Corona safe – just two other people in first class.

My walking route on komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/316572917.

The train journey there was magical, shortly after sunrise, snow covered fields and frosty vegetation. And many large areas covered in solar panels. Taken from the train:

Plumage – even in relatively colourless, northern European birds, fascinates me:

More of the maritime vibe along the canal:

Many sculptures:

On the beach:

The pier:

Other impressions:

And finally, some photos that should definitely be deleted, but I choose to see them as abstracts :-):

Sunday walk 7 February

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The weather was foul and the forecast said -8 to -10 Celcius with snow and strong winds. However, I was determined to keep my appointment with Maxie – my regular “walking bubble person”. After all – how often do we get this kind of weather nowadays? We managed about ten km.

This was the route on Komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/314134743

Drachenbrunnen on Oranienplatz :

Engelbecken-Hof, Leuschnerdamm 13, a house mentioned in the book Verborgenes Berlin, built in 1904 by the Swedish stonemason company Kessel & Röhl, with a characteristic facade and a lift in Jugendstil:

Also mentioned in “Verborgenes Berlin” is the building from the time of the industrial revolution on the corner of Adalbertstraße and Waldemarstraße with the characteristic reliefs. On the other corner, there are two large murals.

Feuerwehrbrunnen, Mariannenplatz:

Through Görlitzer Park:

To Schlesischer Busch and the GDR Watchtower:

And back along Landwehrkanal, slightly weatherbeaten:

Short walk in the neighbourhood 5 February

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To the closest places of interest according to these books:

The Diaspora Garden – I did not actually go in (I think they are closed to visitors), but I have seen the garden before, inside the Michael S. Blumenthal Academy, a more recent addition to the Jewish Museum opposite, on the other side of Lindenstraße. Read about it here.

Here a couple of photos from the outside of the academy (I love the sloth and wonder how long it has been there without me noticing it):

Around Theodor-Wolf-Park between the southern end of Friedrichstraße and Wilhelmstraße there are many large murals. According to the book “Die Schönsten Berliner Stadtspaziergänge” (from 2010), this is the largest mural in Berlin, from 1996 by Christian “Lake” Wahle. The book is from 2010, and I am quite sure it is no longer the largest.

Here two of the several other murals in the area:

Again, I have not actually seen the next “attraction”, although it is almost a neighbour, and also did not enter the building today: the spiral staircase in the house of IG-Metall – Haus des Deutschen Metallarbeiterverbandes. (A website worth exploring a bit, and now that I have been reading about it, I will certainly look at that building with new eyes every time I pass it). The house was designed by the architect Erich Mendelsohn (another revelation worth exploring, with an amazing life story), and the staircase is, according the the book Verborgenes Berlin, one of his lesser-known masterpieces. Here is, for what it is worth, what I was able to come up with today, taken from outside their glass entrance door:

Further along Alte Jakobstraße, for no particular reason:

Ritterhof, Ritterstraße 11, according to the book “Verborgenes Berlin” one of the few buildings in this street that survived WWII:

From neighbouring buildings, and the building site next door to Ritterhof:

And this:

Read more here (the building now houses Betahaus and no longer the TAZ).

And finally, yet another photo of the buildng I can see from my bedroom windows:

Volkspark Hasenheide 21 January

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The park: https://www.berlin.de/en/parks-and-gardens/3561254-4407152-volkspark-hasenheide.en.html.

The route on Komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/307439691.

Trümmerfrau-Denkmal:

In the park:

Passed by this hindu temple which has apparently been under construction on and off for decades. If and when it is ever completed, it will be the second-larges hindu temple in Europe.

Also in the park, this memorial for “Turnvater Jahn”:

On the way home passed through Grimmstraße with Wrangelbrunnen:

And finally a walk along Landwehrkanal:

A tour of parts of Tiergarten

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I decided to familiarise myself with Tiergarten, a.k.a. “Berlin’s green lung”. Although it is always close, no matter where in inner Berlin you are, I have never made much of an effort to get to know it. I guess I thought it would be too cultivated-park like. However, with government’s 15 km rule, and my own rule about using public transport as little as possible, this is no time to be picky.

The route on komoot: https://www.komoot.com/tour/305134669.

Tiergarten does seem very kempt in places but there are other areas where nature seems to have more of a chance. There is also a large area with many rhododendron, some streams and lakes, and wildlife (although unfortunately, I did not see any of the famous beavers).

Also many statues and memorials, some very well-known, some less so.

Not at all a bad place to have within walking distance in times like these. I expect it is crowded during weekends, though.

First a couple of photos on the way there, in Niederkirchnerstraße: A statue outside the southern end of the ministry of finance. I can’t find any details of it, and I am even quite sure it has not been there long. I seem to remember seeing it somewhere else before.

The remnants of the Berlin Wall outside the Topography of Terror, and the statue of Karl-August Fürst von Hardenberg outside the Berlin state parliament (Abgeordnetenhaus).

Further on past Potsdamer Platz, the Musikinstrumentenmuseum and the home of the Berlin Philharmonic, with the memorial for euthanasia victims on the side facing Tiergarten:

In Tiergarten just a few of the many statues and memorials. First the Haydn-Mozart-Beethoven memorial, then two photos of Siegessäule, one of some of the eight bronze animals at Floraplatz. Photo number five I am not sure of, and photo number six is the memorial for Karl Liebknecht.

I saw very little wildlife:

Some further impressions:

When a parcel delivery service sends you on a detour ……

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…… in weather that would normally keep you indoors all day (it started to snow about half way), make the best of it, and bring your newest (and last – I swear) favourite lens (an 18-35mm) along on its first walk.

This was the route.

Corona Diary II

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From 25 October to 31 December 2020.

TO BE CONTINUED IN CORONA DIARY III.

Continued from “Things I can photograph without leaving home” and “My Corona Diary“.

Now in lockdown 2, spending three to four days in a row at home, avoiding the crowds as well as the U-Bahn – which is probably a cesspool at the best of times. Most of the time only going out to food shop and once or twice a week to the outskirts of Berlin for walks in nature.

31 December

The moon shortly before setting this morning:

I bought these air purifiers and installed them a week ago. They claim to clean the air not only of viruses but also of particles, and since I live in a rather busy street with (far too much) motorised traffice, I thought they might be a good investment even though I have no visitors at all these days/weeks/months/(years?).

According to the instructions, when switched on, they should keep a distance of at least 1 m to walls and other objects, because otherwise, particles risk landing on the surroundings. (So this is a practical issue, and not at all a safety issue). That kind of distance is obviously not always convenient, so I have placed one of them closer to both a wall and to some small tables with white tops. After a week, I am not observing much more dust than normally, so this is a “problem” easily solved by a dust cloth or hoover.

In the photo, they look larger than they are. The tallest one is about 65 cm tall.

Counting the hours till it is no longer too early to open a bottle of champagne (although normally, I am much more of a redwine kinda gal), I am reminded of this famous quote:

30 December

Moon setting across the street.

Today was going to be one of the – to use a term which arose during the first lock-down in spring – “stay-the-f…-home” days, but the weather was too good, so – back to the cemeteries, this time Standort Friedhof Lilienthalstraße and Dreifaltigkeitsfriedhof I.

28 December

This morning, BBC World is running a programme called “Europe’s migrant crisis five years later”. This is starting to get on my nerves. Although It is certainly a crisis, to put it mildly, for the migrants, for Europe it is a crisis of xenophobia, bloody-mindedness, mean-spiritedness, inhumanity, and lack of empathy and solidarity, as well as a glaring lack of political will to solve an issue which ought to be a piece of cake for an area as large, wealthy, priviledged, and some even say enlightened (yeah, well, just keep thinking that and it may come true one day) as Europe.

27 December

A few token vaccinations took place yesterday and today, the real “roll-out” starts. According to a plan I saw and posted a few days ago (below), my age group will be vaccinated in August/September.

For now, numbers are still high, and they are talking about extending the current lockdown beyond 10 January.

Although I actually enjoyed the eerie quiet, after four days indoors, I need to get out, and have a walk (with my camera) planned for today, and one (with a friend) planned for tomorrow. That’s two walks in two days. This is turning into an insanely busy schedule.

Oh – nearly forgot: First snow fell yesterday. Did not last long, and did not stay, but for about ten minutes, I saw several children jumping up and down in ecstacy on the balconies across the street :-).

Photos from my walking visit to the cemeteries at Südstern

Since I am not using public transport at all during this lockdown, somebody advised me to go to this place, which is within walking distance for me, for bird photography.

24 December

Playtime!

21 December

Solstice. Feeling pessimistic nonetheless. I fear the next year will be worse than this year, Corona-wise. This virus is mutating faster than rabbits breed, and it is just a matter of time before a new strain appears which is resistant to the known vaccines, if it is not already there.

For me, I feel priviledged to not have to worry about unemployment during this lockdown, and to be able to spend it in a nice home I really like. I have lived my life, fortunate to be born in the best decade and part of the world – the 1950s, Denmark, with all civil and political rights served to me on a silver platter (not to mention a roof over my head, three daily meals, and no wars), never had to fight for anything, so it does not matter whether I live or die. And I have to admit that the thought of being spared the indignities of old age and the ugliness of becoming dependent on other people’s help, is attractive and has been on my mind for a long time already. My mother spent six months in an old peoples’ home before she died and all she talked about was her wish to die and I could not blame her. Ending up in one of those places is indeed a fate worse than death.

However, I feel sorry for all those who thought they had a long life to live, and plans ….. But I just don’t think we can beat this one any time soon. If I am still alive by then, it will be interesting to see whether things really are worse than now on this day next year, or whether I will have been proven wrong.

I am just wondering how long I have to look at all this ugliness. These days, in this restricted, locked-down world, it is easier for me to avoid seeing my own ugly face in the mirror than to see this – first, last, and in between:

Cresco Urban Yurt

Cresco Real Estate

Schön & Sever

20 December

One of the things I have learned during lockdown that I was never aware of is that we need daylight – daily – in order to be able to produce the melatonin which we will need in the evening in order to fall asleep and get a good night’s sleep. (I am not even sure I was fully aware just how important sleep is).

This makes me feel even more priviledged to have a balcony. Even though I want to stick to my self-imposed regime of staying at home about four to five days a week during this lockdown, I have a place to step out onto, away from traffic noise, where I can sit, breathe, watch the clouds float by, read, and hope for a bird or two to turn up for a photo op (even if it is usually only dumb pigeons, and a bit too far away).

19 December

It is strange not to be busy preparing the usual end-of-year parties.

Some years, I have had a pre-Christmas glögg, followed by a curry to balance things out, party. Those have actually been my season’s favourite.

Christmas does not mean much to me, other than an excuse to share good food and wine with family (when I was still living in Denmark), and now friends. As far as I recall, I did not enjoy it much even as a child. I remember it as a time of the year with too many expectations of everything having to be perfect and done in a certain way, not to mention sequence. And as for the infamous Danish Christmas lunches – I always actively hated them and attended as few as possible.

After moving to Luxembourg in January 1976, I and a Danish friend thought it was fun to hold traditional Danish Christmas dinner in early December for non-Danish friends and colleagues, and as far as I recall, we went overboard with the traditions. Of course we all then went our separate ways over the holidays and only came back in early January.

Then, after I moved back to Denmark late 1985, for a number of years while my niece was a child, Christmas Eve was fun. But that is just about the sum of it.

Actually, this Christmas, I would have been spending in Denmark, for once, since my niece had invited me to a combined housewarming and Christmas dinner on 24 December. But that was not to be. A pity in a way, but on the other hand, apart from seeing my brother and his family again, I have no particular desire to visit Denmark.

Since I moved to Berlin in January 2016, every 24 December I have either eaten out with a friend in a really good restaurant, or invited a handful of like-minded people to a “this-is-NOT-Christmas-dinner” dinner at my place.

This year, like for so many others around the world, and many more than normally: An empty house. The upside: I am going to have a whole duck (and a whole bottle of redwine …) to myself on 24 December 😊, and I can slop around in my most comfortable clothes. The duck is already in the freezer, organic, free-range, “aus der Region”, raised by a friend of a friend. I have not made up my mind whether I will cook it this way: https://www.hellemoller.eu/2012/11/17/vietnamese-roast-duck-vit-quay/, or that way: https://www.hellemoller.eu/2012/10/05/malay-braised-duck-in-aromatic-soy-sauce/.

Incidentally, I find people who now whine about not being able to spend Christmas exactly the way they normally do, pathetic and hypocritical. Not only are they completely forgetting about all those who usually have to work over the holidays, but more importantly, they are completely ignoring all those who have been displaced, as refugees, and the younger generations separated from the oldest generations, and have been unable to celebrate anything together for years, AND without knowing whether they will ever see them again. They are also forgetting how they often complain about the pressure put on them to have a picture-perfect, idyllic, whale of a time year after year, and in many cases having to spend the time with people they don’t even particularly want to spend time.

That was my penny’s worth about Christmas. I am looking forward to the peace and quiet, and just for once – I am hoping for snow 😊! It would at least temporarily change the views from my flat and make my street – not the most attractive street by any stretch – more photogenic.

My usual New Year’s Eve party, with anything between ten and around 22 (as far as I remember) people, lounging around, sipping champaign, and watching the fireworks from my 6th floor perch, is of course also not going to happen. In any case, fireworks are becoming so reviled – for many good reasons – and politically incorrect, that those days are probably over anyway. This year, Corona has been an excuse for banning the purchase of fireworks which I am sure will pave the way for a more general ban in the future. Good for the air quality and for the pets, especially the dogs.

For my part, with no fireworks to watch at all, I am not sure I can be bothered to put on a party on 31 December ever again, or even stay awake till midnight :-). I think also in future I will prefer to spend the evening reflecting on the past, present and future, and this year, I have a lot to think about and decisions to make, and some more “dead wood” (metaphorically speaking) to let go of. And persuading myself I have reasons to stay in Berlin and not move to somewhere on the North Sea.

Anaway, what I meant to post were some more photos I took with that 85mm which is causing me so much trouble. I am wondering what that lens is actually for. No matter what I do or photograph, the photos turn out soft and grainy. (But I did know that it was the completely wrong lens for the first photo :-)).

18 December

Had to go and catsit for a couple of days in Prenzlauer Berg. Brought the Canon 85 mm, 1.2 II USM with me to practise. A heave beast of a lens that I can’t get the hang of at all, which can be seen here:

If anybody sees this, and has tips on how tame that lens, they will be very welcome.

17 December

15 December

Last day of “Lockdown Light”. Tomorrow, Germany goes into a “hard lockdown”, in the first instance till 10 January. No big difference for me personally, except I have decided to avoid public transport altogether and therefore will not be going on any long walks on the outskirts of Berlin.

On the positive side, here is some evidence that the sun IS still there, somewhere:

14 December

Starting the week on a negative note, or two, rather – then it can only get better from now on :-).

  1. As if the stinking, noisy, waste-of-space, lethal weapons that are private cars do not do enough damage to our eco-systems, in every sense of the word, Mercedes-Benz has found a way to also send a maximum amount of black printer-toner into circulation. No less than eight full newspaper sized pages with a black background. Well done Mercedes-Benz. And congratulations to Tagesspiegel for distributing this work of genius.

2. It turns out that several of my (so-called) friends are anti-vaxxers. They are old enough to have survived epidemics such as measles and polio thanks to decisions their wiser parents once made on their behalf. So they are also hypocrites. In the case of COVID-19, it is a civic duty for those who can to be vaccinated in order to obtain the essential herd immunity so that as many people as possible can start living as normal lives as possible some time within the coming year (2021).

People with such anti-social attitudes need not contact me any more. It is simply too depressing to realise just how many people are against vaccinations for no other reason than that it is what the authorites recommend; or stupid enough to believe in conspiracy theories, and some even in that video where medical professionals from around the world claim that Covid19 does not exist and that the vaccine is designed to sterilise girls and women. The pharmaceutical companies ought to sue the whole lot of them.

13 December

Another misty morning. There have been many of those this month.

12 December

11 December

This walk from S-Bahn Station Waidmannslust along Hermsdorfer See and part of Tegeler Fließ, past Gedenkstätte ehemalige Grenzsperre (Mahnmal Stalinrasen), round tiny Waldsee and to Auenhof café and gallery (not as friendly a place as it looks, but perhaps it is hard to be particularly friendly at these times) and past Dorfkirche Alt-Reinickendorf: https://www.komoot.com/tour/293133836.

Together with the walk to and from Anhalter Bahnhof that was only about 10,5 km – not good enough, so I will have to make up for it next week :-).

I definitely want to go back to “Steg durch Tegeler Fließ”. The following is a reminder to myself of the types of wildlife one can alledgedly see there:

8 December

I thought I was going to walk around Flughafensee in Tegel. More fool me for not checking first whether that was actually possible. It is not.

What I did see of the lake was lovely, but soon you get to the bird protection area along the western shore of the lake. On the side away from the lake, this area is fenced in (although with an easy view to the area, if not to the lake).

I followed that fence, thinking that sooner or later, I would be able to get back to the lake, but soon met a considerably more aggressice fence which turned out to run along the security zone of Tegel Airport (which closed a couple of weeks ago).

I only really managed to take photos of two birds, both spotted while I was waiting for the bus. One is a cormorant in flight. I don’t know what the other one is, but it was nice of it to sit still long enough.

This is the route. Starting point is U-Bahn Station Holzhauser Straße. End point is where I took the bus (133) back to the same station. https://www.komoot.com/tour/292517821. A nice day out although it turned out a bit different from what I had expected.

6 December

It is a different scenery every morning.

I wonder if that is Mars:

5 December

For a couple of minutes this morning, the sunrise looked like this.

4 December

Tegeler See revisited with a lens better suited for cormorant photography.

Supporting my local restaurants during lockdown. A sacrifice ;-). This evening from Himmel 8 in Ritterstraße, delivered by Wolt.

3 December

One of my few concessions to the season. That is not too christmassy, even for me.

2 December

Moon setting on a day that feels frosty-misty. Or misty-frosty.

Later spotted this outside the Jewish Museum and then played a little bit with it in Lightroom. Autumn colours are my favourite and I am sorry they are almost gone. It has been a long and very lovely autumn in Berlin, though.

Now I have to start working on my dislike of the colour green so that I might end up liking spring almost as much as I like autumn.

1 December

This year has been great for tidying up and discarding “dead wood”, literally and metaphorically.

Anyway, back to the tangibles: Found this old cutting – such as it is, but my mother never bothered with petty details such as source and date – of my father (second from the left) and colleagues just before a performance at the royal theatre. It is probably not the case any longer, but back in the day, the fire brigade (also civil servants) was present behind the scenes in all non-private theatres and concert halls, (hopefully) unbeknownst to the audience. That was just about the only part of the job my father liked. As an added bonus, when a performance or concert was not sold out, he was able to sneak me in for free 😊.

30 November

After three days indoors at home I needed to get out, despite the cold, grey and misty weather. I took the S-Bahn (not particularly full) to Tegel and walked to Tegel Hafen, along the lake, to “Dicke Marie” (alledgedly the oldest tree in Berlin), to some wild animal enclosures and a bit further before returning towards Schloß Tegel which turned out to be unapproachable, and home via the same station. A little less than 15 km in total.

28 November

Berlin has been a hotspot for a while now, and in today’s news came the gloomy statistic that one person dies of or with Covid19 every 100 minutes.

25 November

I know it is foggy when I can’t see the top of the buildings on Potsdamer Platz. When I finally arrange to go for a walk with a friend, we pick the foggiest day this autumn. Will we able to see each other with the distance we are supposed to keep?

At the Landwehrkanal:

24 November

Sunrise. Taken with the 35mm macro lens because there was no time to change lenses. It came out quite well. That is increasingly a favourite lens.

22 November

Guess a macro

15 November

Sunrise, and sunrise reflected, in what used to be the Postbank Building, and in some pigeons enjoying the view.

Beetroot goat cheese waffles:

https://www.hellemoller.eu/2020/11/15/beetroot-cheese-waffles/

14 November

On 13 November, they found a “Blindgänger” – an undetonated, WW2 US bomb about 550 m from my building (this still happens once or twice a year). Today, they started evacuating around 7.500 people from buildings within a radius of 300 m. The Jewish Museum (Architect Danish Libeskind) is within that radius. Surrounding streets were blocked from traffic and the area filled up with police cars and Red Cross vans. Around 18.00, the bomb had been diffused and traffic returned to normal. Or as normal as it gets during this lockdown.

Later, on my balcony:

13 November

On the way back from LPG:

9 November

A dark and misty day.

While I was – exceptionally – out most of the day, on Museum Island, at Hallesches Tor, and at a couple of other places on the way, trying to take photos for this week’s assignment for this online course: Every Place has a Story, co-presented by C/O Berlin and Strudelmedialive, and taught by Anja Hitzenberger, I also took these photos:

8 November

It’s a new world.

7 November

Still practising, and making the best of an epic fail.

5 November

A Beautiful walk round Straussee, to and from Strausberg Stadt, on the S5. Walking round a lake reduces the risk of getting lost, although with my pathetic orientation skills, you never know. Only problem: The sound of cars, more or less distantly, pretty much all the way.

4 November

In the morning I was watching CNN in disbelief that it was not exactly a landslide. After three or four hours, John King’s speed-talking and the speed at which he was able to compute incoming results, and their consequences and possible scenarios in his head was making my head swim and the good weather and fresh air called my name.

I also wanted to take these two beasts out for the first time – arrived yesterday, from me to me – just because A) like so many others, I am not spending money on most of what I used to spend money on, and I won’t be for what is probably going to end up being a period of about two years, if not forever: travel outside Germany; concert, opera, theatre and cinema tickets; and clothes and shoes – apart from a pair of really good walking shoes, and B) to make sure one birthday wish came true:

I no longer had time to go further afield so I opted for a walk along the Landwehrkanal to Urbanhafen. A bit repetitive, but plenty to practise on.

3 November, shortly after sunrise

The weather looks promising, but since I am not planning on going out, it is kind of irrelevant (for me, this is day four in the first set of Corona-imposed stay-at-home days during this second lockdown), and I actually have a very different birthday wish this year – just one – a big one – and I’m sure most of the rest of the world is joining me in keeping everything that can be crossed crossed.

Later, on my balcony:

2 November PM

Weather improved, and expecting my much-looked-forward-to photography course in Amrum in December to be cancelled any day now, it is time to find a different approach.

2 November AM

Day one of second lockdown in Germany. And fittingly, the greyest, rainiest day so far this autumn.

31 October

30 October

29 October

I went for a lovely walk in Tegeler Forst.

28 October

27 October

25 October

My first walk with Berliner Wanderclub.

A walk in Tegeler Forst

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29 October 2020. I found this walk on Komoot’s list of most beautiful autumnal forests in Berlin: https://www.komoot.com/tour/275005256. Start and end S-Bahnhof Frohnau.

A beautiful walk in real mixed forest, with a couple of minor obstacles along the way:

I had time to play with some “ICM” photography: